Lombok: Tropical Escape between Coconuts and Reefs

In the heart of Indonesia, Lombok stands like a still-preserved jewel, where the rhythm of life recalls the gentle swaying of palm trees caressed by the sea breeze. Imagine yourself, feet in the warm sand, a fresh coconut in hand, while the turquoise sea stretches as far as the eye can see, dotted with colorful coral reefs that dance beneath the waves. Lombok is an invitation to slow down, savor each moment and immerse yourself in a world where local coffee invites itself to your table at sunrise, and where every street corner whispers promises of escape. In this little corner of paradise, relaxation rhymes with authentic discoveries, and each day becomes an ode to natural beauty. Get ready to explore this discreetly charming island, where serenity intertwines with the beauty of the landscapes.

The Serenity of Lombok #

The island of Lombok, the lesser known neighbor of Bali, is a true haven of peace. Despite the noise of motorcycles and construction sites, the crowing of roosters and cows, and the melodies floating in the evening air, a soothing calm reigns. The relaxed state of mind of the locals is contagious. Working to live without excess, they get up early, take a nap in the middle of the day, spend the afternoon with friends, and prioritize family time and gastronomy, organizing large parties for holidays.

If modernity is present, it is the nature which offers the best show. The coconut trees dance in the wind, the sunset takes on pink and orange hues, the white sand sparkles, and the fish display all the colors of the rainbow. Nature’s “radio” also broadcasts various sounds: the singing of birds, the murmur of lizards, the call of the muezzin, the wind in the leaves and the lapping of the waves.

Diving with Turtles and Sharks #

THE sea turtles also share this peaceful approach. A large green turtle, flanked by cleaner fish, rests daily in the coral reef near Gili Meno, almost unaffected by the tourists in fins and snorkels who surround it. Other turtles swim slowly to the edge of the reef or descend into the blue abyss of the Meno Slope.

Surrounded by numerous gili—islands—and coral reefs rich in marine life, Lombok is a paradise for snorkeling enthusiasts. The Gili Nanggu Islands and Gili Kedis off the southwest coast of Lombok attract divers with its turtles, fish and untouched reefs. THE Project Hiu supports shark conservation by employing former shark fishermen and organizing diving excursions to the quieter islands to the east of the island.

The Land of 1000 Mosques #

Lombok is predominantly Muslim, as is most of Indonesia. Several times a day, and longer on special occasions, the muezzin’s call echoes through the trees, a magnificent melody especially in the late afternoon when the sun gilds everything it touches. So many mosques dot the island that it is nicknamed the “Land of 1000 mosques”.

The green slopes of Mount Rinjani, Indonesia’s second highest volcano, dominate the north, while the south between the volcano and the sea is a vast expanse of green rice fields and melon fields. On one ride, our driver Galih mentions that his family runs one of the many melon stalls on the main road. We stop there to buy watermelons, and they kindly offer us a fourth with a smile.

Coastal Life in Lombok #

On a Sunday afternoon at Seger Reef, the tide recedes far away, revealing sandbars and seagrass. Local men and boys move further to collect seaweed near the point.

The women and girls, for their part, stay close to the shore, collecting shells without wetting their long clothes. Mostly on the beach with the younger children, they gather in the shade of a bamboo structure, laughing and chatting while keeping an eye on the boys diving into the big waves.

Magnificent Sunsets #

Lombok has almost four million inhabitants, barely visible in the small houses and huts, but they appear at dusk, on their motorbikes to admire the sunset. Many of them head for the hills or the beach, the kerudung women fluttering in the wind. Families play in the water while the sky turns pink, dark orange and red.

Local Coffee, White Sand and Fresh Fish #

One morning, I venture into the town of Kuta. Everything is still quiet, but the cafes are full, and further down the street, the market is bustling with activity. I enjoy a delicious Indonesian coffee comfortably seated in a large wooden chair under the frangipani trees.

Later, I relax on a batik-covered lounge chair at Tanjung Aan Beach. If surfing the reef doesn’t tempt you to climb into a outrigger, fresh coconuts and leaf umbrellas invite reading. The novel “Beauty is a Wound” by Eka Kurniawan is an Indonesian epic that depicts stories of local families through fantastical narratives, while exploring the post-Dutch occupation.

In the evening, we choose a parrot to grill at Warung Fish Tails. The fish is fresh and delicious, served with fluffy white rice, water spinach and ginger garlic beans. For vegetarians and vegans, fresh vegetables, tempeh, tofu and coconut milk dishes are also offered.

Coconut Oil Manufacturing and Sasak Customs #

The inhabitants of Lombok, called the Sasak, jealously preserve their traditions. A French woman, Lulu, married to a Sasak, founded in 2020 Ninē-Ninē Lombok, collaborating with local women to begin a project of weaving and then recycling traditional Sasak clothing. In an evening workshop devoted to coconut, sambal and coffee, we share local fried treats and condensed milk in a circle of wooden armchairs, while Lulu explains local customs, emphasizing the role predominantly middle-aged women in the preservation of traditional culture. Today, her project employs around thirty women, giving priority to those who have not found employment elsewhere.

We make coconut oil together, squeezing the milk from the grated fruit before heating it over a fire until the oil separates, leaving a delicate residue, called “poop”. The latter, a delicacy shared between the women of the village depending on the work provided. The coconut grove is a valuable resource, with every part of the plant used, from the leaves woven into shelter or mats, to the flesh pressed for oil and milk, not forgetting the water, excellent for digestive health.

Sambal Making Ritual and Coffee Roasting #

Together we make sambal, pounding chilli, garlic, galangal, turmeric and onion in old stone mortars, creating a tomato sambal and curry paste for dinner. Dishes requiring several steps or a large quantity of ingredients are always prepared collectively, the work being distributed according to age and physical condition. We learn how to roast local coffee and taste our preparation together. Lulu teaches us that it is crucial to make these preparations over an outdoor fire, unlocking the power of the plants before their use in cooking. Coffee plays an important role in marriages and love affairs, another aspect of black magic that shapes this culture.

Bridal Processions in Black and Gold #

We hear drums and music — a wedding procession passes the garden. The bride, adorned in black and gold, protected by a large umbrella with shiny ornaments, advances in dizzying heels, unable to smile on her lips. The children at the head of the procession greet us proudly. The procession goes to the bride’s village where her family awaits her, before she joins that of her husband.

The musicians stop by periodically, their outfits magnificent — deep purple and red sarongs with sand or teal jackets. The suite is decked out in black and gold, while guests wear shimmering dresses with silk patterns. Little by little, the sounds of drums and cymbals fade away in the valley, replaced by the hum of motorcycles.

Weaving Traditions in Lombok #

The weavers of Ninē-Ninē perpetuate a long sasak tradition. In the villages of Sade and Sukarara, we watch women work with multiple threads, listening to the click of the wood smoothing each new row. A woman cannot marry without learning to weave, a skill taught from mother to daughter. The provision of tools is also passed down, each weaver refining her style and technique. Each color and pattern has a deep meaning: black plays a key role in ceremonies and protection, often achieved through the power of roasted coffee.

The strength of Lombok lies in these traditions: a life in harmony with the sea, woven stories, collective preparations, the black magic of fire, coconut and coffee, and the drums of wedding ceremonies. This subtle blend brings soothing serenity and unwavering inner strength.