If you thought you had seen everything in terms of belaying, get ready to be surprised. Founded in 1863, the Edelrid company is shaking things up again with the OHMEGA, a clever assistant that aims to make climbing safer and smoother for everyone. Designed for the gym, the crag, and alpine terrain, it caters to both beginners and seasoned climbers, with a real smart feature: an integrated pulley that reduces friction at the first point and eases every clipping.
On the agenda: a compact and technical device, adjustable braking levels to compensate for weight differences between partners, and a feeling of assisted handling that makes you want to belay all day long. In short, the OHMEGA is the belaying companion that is already looking towards tomorrow.
Raised to the status of a must-have tool by curious testers, the Edelrid OHMEGA upends traditional belaying with an integrated pulley, adjustable braking levels, and a clear obsession with safety and fluidity. Designed for the gym, the crag, and even alpine terrain, it promises a more comfortable belaying experience, especially when the weight difference between partners becomes noticeable. Here is our complete and lively exploration of this belaying companion from the future… but ready to be clipped today.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow
Since 1863, the German company Edelrid has been driven by the heart of rope and the forefront of innovation. With the OHMEGA, the brand is writing a new chapter in its history focused on safety and technique. The idea is simple and brilliant: a belaying assistant designed for all climbing styles and pairs, capable of smoothing out size discrepancies and offering remarkably fluid rope management, even when the first point is in an overhang and the rope pulls like an anchor.
Our advisors from the Latin Quarter tested it for several months, indoors and outdoors, on thin ropes as well as thick ropes, with pairs of varying experiences and weights. Verdict: an impressive tool, sometimes perplexing at first, but incredibly effective once you understand the logic.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – What is it?
The OHMEGA is an assisted belaying device dedicated to single ropes, tailored for the gym, the crag, and alpine settings. Its mission: to brake the rope in case of a fall, stabilize the belayer, and limit the “catapult” effect when the climber is significantly heavier. The spark of ingenuity? An integrated pulley that reduces friction at the first point, allowing you to give and take slack with royal comfort, especially on long or demanding routes.
The brand takes a universal approach: whether beginners or experienced, as long as you’re climbing on a single strand, the OHMEGA concerns you. All that’s left is to master the 3-level braking settings designed to compensate for a weight difference of about 10 to 30 kg between partners.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – How does it work?
At the heart of the device, the integrated pulley controls the weather. By reducing friction at the first point, it streamlines the clipping, reduces jolts, and enables a more serene rope management. In the event of a fall, the OHMEGA adds a dose of braking that limits the belayer’s unwanted movements, especially when the weight difference becomes significant.
A small nuance: the markings on the cheeks may seem hard to read at first. Nothing insurmountable, but it’s wise to do a few trials to find the right usage orientation and the appropriate friction setting for your duo.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – The important details
In terms of materials, it’s a robust and lightweight mix: aluminum, stainless steel, and a Dyneema strap, for a featherweight of 190 g. It works with a single rope and adjusts to three levels of braking to compensate for a 10 to 30 kg difference between partners. The integrated pulley, the star of the device, is there to reduce friction at the first belay and offer more fluid rope management.
To deepen your belaying fundamentals and maintain sharp reflexes, take a look at this guide on climbing safety and belaying. And if the call of adventure already excites you, here’s something to feed your desires for outdoor adventures.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – Our test feedback
First impressions
At first sight, surprise: the markings require a bit of attention. A few manipulations later, the logic falls into place. The OHMEGA invites you to “set your groove”: choose the right braking level according to the weight difference, the rope thickness, and the style of route. After this slight learning curve, we dive into the core of the matter.
The integrated pulley, a little miracle
Indoors and outdoors, the integrated pulley changes the game. Giving slack is almost playful, taking back rope becomes a stress-free gesture, and clipping on overhanging routes loses that “tug of war” aspect at the first point. Even between partners of similar weights, comfort increases: the OHMEGA is not just a gap corrector, it’s a fluidity amplifier.
Lightweight vs heavyweight: the truth about falls
We simulated falls with up to 20 kg of difference. On thick rope, be careful not to push the braking to the maximum: the combination of natural friction + device can make the belaying a bit too harsh. In a situation where the gap was ultimately minimal, the rope even tended to lock during a descent, requiring a little manual intervention. The moral of the story: the OHMEGA is indeed versatile, but it requires a minimum of familiarity to use its magic without hiccups.
Dynamic belaying isn’t just a word
It’s on thin rope that the OHMEGA reveals its full brilliance: the fluidity is present, and unexpected locks disappear. With a significant weight difference, the belayer gets lifted, which induces a nearly automatic dynamic belaying. However, between similar sizes, one must relearn the feel: if you dynamically catch the fall “the old way”, the device may hold the rope too much and harden the impact. Conversely, gentler gestures result in softer falls. After a few trials, one quickly finds the ideal balance between control and elasticity.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – Compared to other devices
The OHMEGA revives the question of compensation systems at the first point. Without delving into the bickering of communities, let’s just say it manages to combine braking assistance and integrated pulley in a convincingly effective way. For a broader perspective, also check out our review of the Petzl NEOX, another modern solution for managing slack and fluidity, albeit with a different approach.
At Edelrid, regulars will inevitably think of the historic OHM. Here, the OHMEGA carves its own niche: more versatility in classic belaying, less compromise on fluidity, and a management of the first point that changes the game. As we went out, we found ourselves wondering if the OHMEGA doesn’t slightly make the old system obsolete… an open question, to be tested according to your play areas.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – Usage tips
– Take the time to clearly identify the markings and the usage orientation before your first session.
– Adjust the braking level according to the weight difference and the rope diameter: on thick rope, avoid over-braking.
– Test your automatism on thin rope to experience maximum fluidity and refine your fall dynamics.
– Stay humble on the first warming-up routes and review your basic safety skills with this useful recap on belaying safety. For a broader reflection on the balance between commitment and caution, also read Climbing the stars, measuring risks.
Discovering the Edelrid OHMEGA: the innovative belaying companion of tomorrow – In short, for whom and why?
For climbers who want a more comfortable belaying experience, a more fluid rope management, and real help when the weight difference makes every fall unpredictable, the OHMEGA checks all the boxes. The strengths are evident: ease of giving/taking slack, remarkable performance on thin rope, and effective compensation for size discrepancies. Drawbacks do exist and fulfill their warning role: markings to get used to, a small adaptation time, risks of locking if you over-brake with a thick rope.
In exchange for a few sessions of acclimatization, you gain a belaying partner with a strong character, made from beautiful materials (aluminum, stainless steel, Dyneema) and ready to accompany you from the gym to the great outdoors. And if your heart desires to extend the adventure beyond the walls, let yourself be inspired by these ideas for outdoor activities that make you want to make the rope sing.
