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IN BRIEF |
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A week in Albania, purchased like any traveler through a tour operator, allowed me to experience a circuit of 8 days/7 nights, to live the daily movement from hotel to hotel, to explore the Albanian Riviera, UNESCO-listed cities, delicious cuisine, and touching hospitality. Here I recount the purchase, the organization (flight Transavia to Tirana, departure from the province, small group), the itinerary (Durres, Vlorë, Saranda, Gjirokastër, Berat, Pogradec), the level of hotels, beach prices (sunbeds at 10–25 €), social duality, the question of the euro and the lek, as well as my seasonal tips for enjoying a still authentic country.
Why Albania now?
An emerging destination on the map of European vacations, Albania is increasingly attracting travelers from the West. Without a genuine tourist office in France, the country still welcomed nearly 300,000 French tourists this year. Between Ottoman heritage, stone cities and wild nature, this territory of the Balkans, covering about 28,000 km², combines beach and culture. On the shores of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the coves follow one another and, even at the end of September, the weekends remain lively. In this context, I wanted to experience the destination “like everyone else,” by booking a turnkey guided tour.
Booking as a regular customer: simple and smooth
I chose the “Grand Tour of Albania” operated by Top of Travel, a specialist in departures from the province, which collaborates on-site with Albania DMC. Booking occurs without fuss, through a partner agency (several passengers in my group had gone through Leclerc Voyages). The departure on September 12 featured an intimate group of barely thirty participants, a good half of whom came from Grand Est. Direct flight Transavia Paris–Tirana, schedules respected and luggage delivered quickly upon arrival.
Practical advice from a traveler: always keep an eye on the current news regarding air travel. Air travel disruptions can affect any area and have a domino effect; simple vigilance can save you unnecessary stress.
An effective 8D/7N itinerary, from West to South then East
The pace is that of a true grand tour: changing hotels every day, which ensures a balanced time between driving and visits. From Durres to Vlorë, the coast unfolds its panoramas, before reaching Saranda and the Ionian waters. The route then moves inland with Gjirokastër, a museum town with slate roofs, then Berat, nicknamed the “city of a thousand windows” and classified by UNESCO, before sliding to Pogradec on the shores of Lake Ohrid. Overall, it gives a fair idea of the country’s contrasts: seaside, heritage, mountains, villages, and lakes.
Accommodation: from brand new to very local
Recently opened to international tourism, local hospitality abounds. There are many 4-star hotels in line with local standards, sometimes ostentatious 5-stars. In Berat, the Colombo hotel (5*) stands out for its dome, inherited from an old private university with imposing accents. In the hinterland, the decor changes: in Permet, I stayed at Merly (3*), located in front of a gas station, run by a local mechanic who, over the years, has added a reception room and then rooms. A raw, sincere charm that tells the story of a destination still under construction.
Beaches, prices, and currency: reading between the lines
On the Albanian Riviera, renting two sunbeds and an umbrella costs between 10 and 25 euros depending on the quality of the beach. With a commonly heard conversion benchmark (around 100 lek for 1 euro), these prices weigh heavily for part of the population, as the average salary is around 400 euros monthly. One perceives a society with two speeds: in the most popular resorts, especially around Ksamil near Saranda, luxury cars, often Audis, are abundant. In very touristy areas, menus and bills sometimes display prices directly in euros, a pragmatic use for an international clientele.
Cuisine and hospitality: a real strong point
Great surprise (and great pleasure): Albanian cuisine. Influenced by Mediterranean and Balkan traditions, it features mezze, grilled meats, local cheeses, fish, and sun-drenched vegetables. The welcome is warm, often familial. For those who like to compare culinary and cultural heritages around the Mediterranean, a circuit in Turkey from Istanbul to Troy offers an interesting counterpoint to the Ottoman influences perceptible in Albania.
An international clientele and a pacified memory
Thanks to low-cost links to Tirana, visitors from Germany, France, and Italy are arriving, joined by many Turkish travelers. Albanians do not show any particular resentment towards the Ottoman legacy, which is central in their history. This mix of audiences creates a cosmopolitan atmosphere in coastal resorts and historical centers in the evening.
Seasonal tips and inspirations to vary pleasures
I recommend the off-season for visiting: still bright days, pleasant temperatures, and more breathable sites. If the idea of circuits appeals to you, you can also take inspiration from these festive journeys around Christmas markets in Europe. And to combine city breaks and terroir discoveries before or after your departure (especially if you are transiting through Lyon), take a look at these tastes to savor around Beaujolais and Lyon.
The circuit market is evolving rapidly: new itineraries and operators are appearing, similar to some announcements in the sector like the development of products by Falk Travel. Stay curious and compare: group sizes, pace, hotel locations, and the actual number of inclusions are the real criteria for comfort in this type of travel.
Albania and the European Union: what is changing for the traveler
After decades of isolation and transition, Albania aims to join the European Union in a few years. Without prejudging the timeline, the country is progressively aligning with certain practices: the more touristy a locality is, the more euros circulate, sometimes at the expense of lek displays. For the traveler, this simplifies the daily budget, although I recommend keeping cash in the local currency, especially when moving away from the coast and major cities.
