Between Pisa and Florence, a discreet town steals the spotlight from the icons of Tuscany with its gently rolling hills, sun-drenched vineyards, and historic villas adorned with cypress trees. Easily accessible, generous in gardens, wines, and trails, it combines the art of living, Napoleonic history, and mountain adventures. Here’s why this chic countryside — with Lucca as its neighbor — deserves a prime spot on your next postcard.
In the heart of an amphitheater of green lines and blonde stones, the town of Capannori gently stretches to the southwest of Lucca. Here, one finds what is secretly hoped for from Tuscany and too rarely encountered when sticking to the beaten path: avenues of slender cypress trees, generous light — over 2,500 hours of sunshine per year — and an aristocratic heritage revealed behind prim gateways, all just a stone’s throw from major tourist capitals.
Stuck between two giants (in terms of numbers and charm) — the Leaning Tower of Pisa and the museums of Florence —, Capannori plays the slow card to seduce more effectively. One strolls, tastes, hikes, and leaves promising to keep the address to oneself… or to share it with a few chosen friends.
Between Pisa and Florence, discover an Italian town surrounded by rolling landscapes, vineyards, and charming historic villas — on the villas and gardens side
Undisputed queen of the locations, the Villa Reale di Marlia welcomed, from 1806, Elisa Baciocchi Bonaparte, Napoleon’s sister. Its Renaissance façades flirt, but it is in the gardens that the magic happens: a sequence of Italian parterres, orangeries, and water mirrors where one can almost hear history rippling. One walks here like in a dream scented with citrus, between muted elegance and theatrical landscapes.
Further east, the Villa Carrara watches over a character adored by children and photographed from all angles by adults: the legendary Oak of the Witches. Classified as a national monument, this nearly six-century-old tree has fueled rumors of sabbats… and, it is said, inspired Carlo Collodi for a few pages of Pinocchio. Folklore, literature, venerable nature: a winning trio for a stop full of stories.
Between Pisa and Florence, discover an Italian town surrounded by rolling landscapes, vineyards, and charming historic villas — on the vineyards and flavors side
Here, the vineyards climb the hills like musical staves and play the perfect score between cool air from the mountains and high-yielding sunshine. At Colle di Bordocheo, a bio-converted agriturismo, tastings take on the feel of a living tableau: glasses raised before the hills, notes of ripe fruits, shimmering olive groves, silence only disturbed by a solo cricket.
The cellars of the region tell the patience of winemakers and the generosity of the lands. Here, one discovers structured reds for leisurely dinners, luminous whites for garden lunches, and olive oils that deserve a spoonful of their own. The dolce vita, but in terroir style.
Between Pisa and Florence, discover an Italian town surrounded by rolling landscapes, vineyards, and charming historic villas — on the trails and adventures side
After the palaces, it’s time for the steps. The ancient Via Francigena, an old pilgrimage route connecting Rome to England, runs through the heart of the city, passing by the parish church before heading towards historic villas and breathtaking countryside. One can choose a branch to the north or south to vary the pleasures, always with panoramas that steal the show.
Experienced walkers will covet Monte Pisano, its wooded crests, and shaded paths, perfect for a day of elevation gain. Pushing further north, just an hour’s drive away, the Garfagnana opens the door to the Apuane Alps: trails winding through ancient marble quarries before dropping to ridges that, on clear days, overlook the discreet sparkle of the Ligurian Sea. Grand, without frills.
Between Pisa and Florence, discover an Italian town surrounded by rolling landscapes, vineyards, and charming historic villas — on access and good plans side
Good news for travelers eager to slow down: Pisa’s international airport is located about 30 minutes away by car, while Florence‘s Amerigo Vespucci airport is about 45 minutes away. The E76 route crosses the area and connects to the major Italian highways, even allowing for a trip to Rome in less than four hours. Convenient, right?
Spring and the off-season are the moments of grace: golden light, friendly temperatures, active vines. In the height of summer, the insider tip is to aim for morning visits to the gardens, then enjoy a nap in the shade before tastings at the end of the day. Cyclists will find delightful loops around Lucca, worthy of Rick Steves’ notebooks, to warm up before tackling the hills.
Between Pisa and Florence, discover an Italian town surrounded by rolling landscapes, vineyards, and charming historic villas — inspirations and neighboring getaways
Want to enrich your itinerary? The classics abound and deserve attention; here are some suggestions to slip into your travel favorites. For a bouquet of ideas from around the globe, take a look at these must-see destinations. And if the Tuscan elegance has captivated you, know that there is a landscape in France with a very similar charm; discover this part of Hexagon that evokes the beauty of Tuscany.
Epicureans can extend towards Emilia-Romagna, a flavorful and generous neighbor in specialties, through this gourmet discovery. Are you departing from an unexpected base or do you enjoy off-the-beaten-path road trips? Get inspired by this journey in Italy from Lurcy-Lévis. And if you’re traveling with family, nothing prevents you from testing distant destinations with little globe-trotters; this article on Kauai with a small child is full of transferable tips everywhere.
