Heading towards Italy which whispers more than it shows: La Spezia, in Liguria, stands out as the cleverest gateway for an extended escape in the Cinque Terre. A large port city with discreet charm, it combines characterful museums, Baroque palaces, and a war-torn past that has shaped its soul, all nestled between the promontory of Porto Venere and the Gulf of Poets. You can easily board a boat to cruise along the coast, and then return to stroll in the evening under the lights of the squares, when the city vibrates to the rhythm of summer jazz. Here, you unpack your bags… to shine even brighter.
Heading towards La Spezia, a large city in Liguria often overlooked, but perfect for radiating towards the Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Poets. Between surprising museums, Ligurian stairs, flamboyant churches, underground galleries haunted by history, stylish nights on Piazza Verdi, and maritime escapes to Porto Venere, La Spezia offers a travel backdrop that is both practical and ultra-seductive. Step aboard: we’ll show you why it is the dream gateway for an extended adventure along the Riviera.
La Spezia, a clever base to approach the Cinque Terre
Between Genoa and Pisa, sheltered by the promontory of Porto Venere, La Spezia flourishes around its port and naval base. Its assets? Quick boat and train links to bypass the crowds, hotels with great value for money, and a lively center that makes you want to stay. In the morning, board towards Riomaggiore, Manarola, or Monterosso; in the evening, return to enjoy a drink on the terrace via del Prione. To locate the most photogenic hamlets, take from this guide of the best villages of the Cinque Terre and compose your ideal tour.
Under the city, the echo of bombs: the Quintino Sella gallery
La Spezia has its memory tied to the rock. Buried beneath the streets, the Quintino Sella gallery served as an air raid shelter during World War II. A multimedia installation (in Italian/English) immerses you in the heart of the night of April 1943, when the Royal Air Force turned the city into a hell of tin and dust. Guaranteed chills: you can almost feel the muffled breath of explosions vibrating the walls.
Ligurian stairs and royal panorama at San Giorgio castle
At the exit of the gallery, a Ligurian staircase clings to the hill and climbs to the San Giorgio castle, a medieval fortress turned museum. Inside, anthropomorphic stelae, Roman mosaics, and ritual objects unfold the local history. On the terraces, the view over the harbor, the rooftops, and the Gulf of Poets is a living canvas where ferries, sailboats, and silhouettes of hills glide by.
Notre-Dame des Neiges: the unexpected brilliance of an eclectic church
At 65 viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, push open the door of the Notre-Dame des Neiges church (1898). Under coffered ceilings, brick pillars and columns of red Verona marble in Byzantine inspiration create an audacious decor. In the heart of the choir, a wooden Madonna dated to the 15th century, wrapped in a legend of disappearance and miracle, adds its share of mystery to the place.
Myths, rites, and icons: Podenzana and the Diocese museum
Unflagging ethnographer, Giovanni Podenzana bequeathed thousands of objects that tell the life of the Ligurian countryside: beliefs, healings, and traditions once again take voice at the museum bearing his name. Just a stone’s throw away, the Diocese museum, housed in the deconsecrated oratory of San Bernardino, aligns ivories, silverware, and icons of hypnotic finesse. Two perfect stops to understand the religious and popular soul of the region.
A face-to-face with Titian at the Amedeo Lia museum
In the bustling via del Prione, the Amedeo Lia museum is a discreet treasure. In thirteen rooms, it scrutinizes the Middle Ages and the modern era: ivories, illuminations, paintings… up to a portrait of a gentleman by Titian that captures the gaze with a troubling intensity. An aesthetic rendezvous, far from the beaten paths.
From René Lalique to Fabergé: the unique museum of the Seal
Who would have bet on an exciting museum dedicated to seals? From pharaonic Egypt to the Forbidden City, from Rome to the Crown of England, humanity seals its secrets here. Wood, ivory, crystal, porcelain, bronze, silver: the collection (about 1,500 pieces) shines, featuring rarities like crystal seals signed by René Lalique or jewel seals from Fabergé. Guaranteed fascination for lovers of precious details.
Electric nights: Piazza Verdi and the Baroque heart
As night falls, La Spezia lights up like a stage. From Piazza Sant’Agostino and its Baroque façades dotted with lions and shells, you glide towards Piazza Verdi where the specular arches of Daniel Buren sculpt the light. You pass the bust of Virginia Oldoini, countess of Castiglione and muse of 19th-century Europe, before looking up at the Bertagna House, a futuristic manifesto. A stroll as photogenic as it is festive.
Figureheads and sea legends at the Arsenal
In the heart of the Arsenal, the maritime museum (Museo Tecnico Navale) gathers models, amphorae, and especially figureheads that seemed to watch over the oceans: explorers, saints, sovereigns, and heroines sculpted in wood. Here, one can sense the salt, the wind, and the stories of men who leave and return, carried by the same horizon.
A jazz blue summer
Every summer since 1969, La Spezia balances between swing and improvisations during an international jazz festival. The squares become stages, the harbor vibrates, the terraces dance: a delightful way to let the city tame you to the rhythm of a saxophone.
Porto Venere and the Gulf of Poets: the magical getaway
A few waves away, Porto Venere invites you to a poetic tête-à-tête: a perched church, sculpted rocks, pastel houses huddled together like an opera chorus. Before boarding, get inspired by this guide dedicated to Porto Venere, the magical village to discover near the Cinque Terre. One day is enough to fall in love; one night, to never forget.
Shining without rushing: boats, trails, and trains
From La Spezia, we play the mixed card: boat to glide along the cliffs, train to hop from one village to another, trails to inhale the maquis. The La Spezia Centrale station is a revolving door to the towns, while the port ensures maritime connections. Dreaming of expanding the fresco? Here are tips to explore Europe by train and connect your Ligurian interlude to other enchanting rail routes.
Recommended itinerary for an extended adventure
Day 1: wander through the historic center (via del Prione, Piazza Verdi), dive into history at Quintino Sella, climb to the San Giorgio castle for sunset. Night on the port, to the sound of jazz if it’s the season.
Day 2: head towards the Cinque Terre by sea in the morning, return by train making multiple scenic stops. On the agenda: swimming, focaccia, and villages spotted with the help of this guide to the prettiest villages.
Day 3: morning at museums (Amedeo Lia, Seal museum, Diocese museum), afternoon at the Arsenal to greet the figureheads, then golden escape to Porto Venere for dinner by the waves.
Flavors, markets, and Ligurian dolce vita
Between visits, let yourself be swept away by a cone of pesto that wafts, a crispy focaccia, or a glass of local vermentino. The market of La Spezia lines up silver anchovies, meaty olives, and heroic basil. Here, the dolce vita is practiced with bites, sips, and small steps along the illuminated quays.
