At the gates of Dresden, the Saxon Switzerland unfolds its sandstone cliffs, mossy forests, and romantic panoramas along the Malerweg, a 112 km ribbon often celebrated as the most picturesque trail in Germany. Between the natural arch of Kuhstall and the dizzying heights of the Bastei, embark on two stages perfect for a weekend in a setting that inspired romantic masters, where every turn promises a postcard scene.
Near Dresden, Saxon Switzerland unfurls its sandstone towers, shaded forests, and romantic vistas along the legendary Malerweg, repeatedly voted the most beautiful trail in Germany. In one weekend, set off to discover two irresistible hikes: a contemplative ascent from Lichtenhainer Wasserfall to the arch of Kuhstall, and an aerial odyssey from Wehlen to the Bastei and then Kurort Rathen, above the Elbe. Vintage trams, dizzying bridges, fragrant resinous forests, and splashes of rocky peaks: embark on a poetic and breathtaking getaway.
Just steps from Dresden, the Malerweg winds for about 112 km through Saxon Switzerland, a land of dizzying sandstone, enchanted valleys, and viewpoints that have inspired many a romantic. It is here that great masters, from Adrian Ludwig Richter to Caspar David Friedrich, found their muses. Eight marked stages — look for the pictogram of a white wave on a blue background — invite contemplation. For a weekend, two routes offer an ideal immersion: the gentle climb to Kuhstall and the panoramic ascent leading to the Bastei.
The Romantic Ribbon of Painters
The Painter’s Path deserves its name: sandstone cliffs with mystical silhouettes, forests of Scots pines and beeches, natural terraces from which “frameable” views emerge. One can understand why the famous traveler in the green tailcoat of Friedrich seems to contemplate, from a dream, these seas of clouds that sometimes float over the Elbe. Here, each promontory resembles an open-air studio and every bend holds the potential for a painting.
Meditative Climb in the Kirnitzsch Valley
An ideal base, Bad Schandau has that discreet charm of the East, its colorful pastries in shop windows, and its hearty specialties. It is the perfect starting point for a forest escape leading to the monumental arch of Kuhstall, one of the rock stars of the region.
Access and Atmosphere
From Bad Schandau, board the picturesque Kirnitzschtalbahn — a vintage tram that has been traversing the valley since the late 19th century — to Lichtenhainer Wasserfall. The journey passes by half-timbered houses, runs alongside the Kirnitzsch creek, and already sets the atmosphere. At the terminus, a shy waterfall today, a kiosk serving bockwurst and filter coffee, with some flip-flops on people's feet: everything heralds an accessible yet characterful walk.
On the Path to the Kuhstall Arch
Head towards stage 4 of the Malerweg, the shorter, brisk version: expect about 3.5 to 4 km round trip, 1.5 to 2 hours of walking, with nearly 350 m of elevation gain and the same in descent. The trail is marked by the famous white wave on a blue background. The ascent winds in the shade of conifers and broadleaf trees, punctuated by rocks that dramatize the scene. The arrival under the immense vault of Kuhstall, sculpted by erosion, has something mystical about it: a cinematic setting, green and ochre, that opens onto a sea of pines and rocky needles. The descent, by a staircase nestled between the walls, flirts with the foxgloves — beautiful but best admired from a distance. Back at the waterfall, one can choose between smoked trout with herb butter or a scoop of ice cream before boarding the little yellow tram. A “ride” that is retro with a grand view.
Flight Above the Clouds
The second act, more aerial: the crossing from Wehlen to the Bastei, then the descent to Kurort Rathen. A hike where the Elbe plays the silver ribbon and where a stone bridge literally flies above the void.
Wehlen, the Tranquil Gateway
From Bad Schandau, an S-Bahn runs along the Elbe to Wehlen. A short ferry crossing leads to the right bank, and the village already offers its good addresses, like this little grocery store where they fill plump brötchen with homemade salami. The path rises first on cobblestones along a mossy wall and flowering gardens. At the entrance of the national park, the forest takes over, cool and silent, barely disturbed by the song of birds and the rustling of ferns.
The Bastei and Its Bridge in the Sky
Greetings abound — “Hallo,” “Moin,” “Servus” — a sign that the Bastei is approaching. Suddenly, sandstone pinnacles rise like mineral canines above the river. The Basteibrücke, a 76 m bridge built in 1851 from sandstone, spanning a chasm, offers that suspended moment one dreams of living once in a lifetime: the sensation of walking above the clouds, nearly 200 m above the Elbe, facing a panorama that gives tingles in the calves and stars in the eyes.
Easy Descent to Kurort Rathen
From the Bastei, the descent leads to Kurort Rathen via a staircase famous for both its views and its steps — around 675 — that you take in the right direction: down. Expect approximately 8 km round trip from Wehlen, 3.5 hours of hiking, +320 m elevation gain on the way up, -480 m on the descent, under the same marking of the white wave on a blue background. Upon arrival, the terraces welcome hikers with herring, goulash, and clinking glasses: you have just checked off an icon of Saxon Switzerland.
Practical Information
How to Get There
From Paris, one can reach Dresden directly by flight at certain times, or by TGV via Frankfurt, then take the S-Bahn S1 to Bad Schandau. On-site, trains, ferries, and vintage trams facilitate access to the two described hikes.
Where to Sleep
Set on the banks of the Elbe, the Hotel Elbresidenz an der Therme Bad Schandau features a spa, an indoor pool, and a large flowered terrace for dining facing the hills. Starting at around 225 € per night for a double room. Good to know: whether camping, at a hotel, or in a rental, the Gästekarte mobil is often provided and allows for free use of many public transports in the area.
Bonus Ideas in the Vicinity
Climb to the Königstein Fortress with the Festungs-Express, a vintage open-top bus that winds up to this 16th-century stronghold, perched 240 m above the Elbe. Up there, a 9.5-hectare plateau reveals a 360° panorama, sometimes reaching Dresden on clear days. Don’t miss the deepest well in Saxony, 152.5 m, hand-dug into sandstone: a dizzying feat of engineering.
