In a word: in Split, we climb. From the steps of the bell tower of Saint Domnius Cathedral to the fragrant pine paths of Mount Marjan, this Roman and Adriatic city combines cardio and contemplation. We traverse the Palace of Diocletian like a living labyrinth, sip coffee on the Riva, hesitate between Bačvice beach and viewpoints, then end up, breathless but happy, facing the shimmering Adriatic. Here is my ascent, from the bell tower to the peaks, in the ancient heart of Croatia.
The second largest city in Croatia, Split has the soul of a seaside town. Its historic center, set in the stones of the Palace of Diocletian (4th century, UNESCO-listed), beats to the rhythm of narrow streets, Roman columns, and terraces where espresso cups clink. Between two staircases, we encounter ancient relics, Renaissance façades, and that blue sky which seems to have signed an eternal pact with the Adriatic.
I arrive one morning during a cruise, still energized by eggs Benedict and an outrageously buttery croissant. Bad idea? Let’s say it’s an essential fuel: the city awaits me, vertical and seductive, ready to challenge my thighs.
The bell tower of Saint Domnius: cardio with an Adriatic view
In the center of the Palace, the Saint Domnius Cathedral stands with its bell tower about 1,700 years old. The steps are steep, almost ladder-like at times; my heart rate thinks it’s a solo battery. But every landing brings me closer to a breathtaking reward: a 360° panorama, cascading red tile roofs, a marina dotted with masts, and the Adriatic unfurled like sapphire blue silk. Superyachts parade, excursion boats glint in the sun, and my cruise ship looks like a floating hotel ready for a nap.
Climbing in Split: from bell towers to peaks in the ancient heart of Croatia — through the centuries
From up there, I descend towards the Peristyle, a marble square where the Roman columns strike a pose while musicians, onlookers, and costumed gladiators form the soundtrack. The streets polished by centuries of comings and goings guide our steps in this open-air museum where we live, laugh, and chat in the sun.
Palace of Diocletian and museums that dust off history
Around the corner, the City Museum of Split aligns three floors of local artifacts and anecdotes, the Emanuel Vidović Gallery shines a light on Croatian art, and the Temple of Jupiter keeps its original vault like a well-kept secret. Here, Antiquity isn’t an era: it’s a neighbor we share the landing with.
The giant’s wish: the statue of Gregory of Nin
At the north gate, the imposing statue of Gregory of Nin looks down on me. Tradition holds that rubbing its toe grants a wish. I comply fervently… and with a tissue, because ancient charm is nice, but my obsessive side is hard to shake.
Climbing in Split: from bell towers to peaks in the ancient heart of Croatia — flavors and cafés
The smell of garlic and grilled fish catches me like a lasso. In a secret courtyard, Korta Café simmers the Dalmatian soul: black risotto, lamb with peas, grilled fish… I’m tempted by a brodet, a seafood stew with shrimp, mussels, and gnocchi that dances with tomato and garlic. Amid the centuries-old stones carpeted with vines, I soak up the bowl without scruples.
Want more nature inspirations before or after Split? Cliff and vertiginous landscape lovers can check out this guide on a hiking park with spectacular cliffs. And if your steps lead you to Aveyron, here are some must-sees in Najac and Villefranche that breathe stone and history.
The Riva: the promenade that never sleeps
Heading to the Riva, the social backbone of Split: lined with palm trees, cafés galore, gelatos on parade, and a sea breeze as a guest star. People stroll there, observe, and question the idea of leaving. The sea sparkles, as if it invented the notion of love at first sight.
Climbing in Split: from bell towers to peaks in the ancient heart of Croatia — sea or bougainvilleas?
Beach option? Bačvice sprawls its blonde sand, a rarity in a region rather fond of pebbles. The coves of Kašuni and Obojena, at the foot of Marjan, whisper too. Walking option? My companion proposes the summit. My thighs vote against, my heart for. Guess who wins.
Marjan, the green lungs of Split
Mount Marjan, nicknamed the “lungs of the city,” is dressed in pines singing with the cicadas. Stone steps wind through, scented with resin warmed by the sun. We pass the Café Bar Vidilica — the clever ones settle there in the shade with a cold beer — and every bend reveals a piece of horizon.
Around 300 steps, the terrace of Prva Vidilica offers a bar for the thirsty and a millionaire view for everyone. A stone’s throw away, a Jewish cemetery recalls darker stories, and the chapel of Saint Nicholas (Romanesque, 13th century) watches over through the centuries. We take the postcard photo, keep silent for a second, then climb again.
Up to Telegrin, the highest point
Many stop at the terrace; we push on to Telegrin. A hundred more steps, a few cats free as the air napping in the sun, an unlikely mini-zoo, and here is the summit at 175 m. The Adriatic unfolds with islands in dotted lines, the old town sparkles, and our ship awaits, promising one more dessert. Legs burn, mind soars.
Climbing in Split: from bell towers to peaks in the ancient heart of Croatia — preparing your day
Some tips to enjoy the vertical: start early or late afternoon to avoid the heat; closed non-slip shoes mandatory; bring water and sun protection; plan for a ticket to the bell tower of Saint Domnius and respect the hours of worship; on Marjan, follow the marked steps and viewpoints, and save some energy for the descent (your knees will thank you).
If you’re traveling for work or enjoy optimizing your trips, check out the management solutions: travel management tips with SAP Concur and the latest innovations in AI applied to travel expenses. For your next 100% nature getaway, the Great Cascade in the Pyrenees checks all the boxes for waterfall lovers.
